WHAT IS SPECIAL
Introduced in the early 1980s, the Ref. 18068 is one of the most representative factory-set high-jewellery Day-Date references of its era. It retained the 36mm yellow-gold case and Calibre 3055 single-quickset movement of the 18000-series Day-Date, yet its fully integrated gem-setting placed it far beyond the realm of the conventional “President’s Watch.” Rather than simply adding stones to the bezel or hour markers, the 18068 was conceived from the outset as a complete high-jewellery composition.
This particular example, dating to 1983, features a bezel set with 44 square-cut rubies. Arranged continuously around the case, the stones form a clear and uninterrupted red perimeter. Their vivid, saturated color plays against the warmth of the 18K yellow-gold case, establishing the watch’s distinctive visual character.
That red theme continues inward across the dial. Ruby hour markers echo the bezel, with baguette-cut stones at 6 and 9 o’clock introducing a subtle variation in shape and rhythm, allowing the bezel, hour markers display to speak the same chromatic language and giving the entire watch a remarkable sense of visual unity.
The remainder of the dial is almost completely covered in diamonds, creating a continuous field of light. To preserve the integrity of this pavé surface, Rolex even relocated the coronet and ROLEX signature to the underside of the sapphire crystal, making the logo appear almost to float above the diamonds.
The black hands are another crucial design choice. Against an intensely bright background of rubies, yellow gold and diamonds, they provide strong visual separation and keep the time immediately legible.
What ultimately makes this watch so compelling is the way so many extravagant elements are organized with such clarity. The result is lavish without becoming chaotic, rich in detail yet carefully structured.