Patek Philippe

The dial of this 1980s Patek Philippe Ref. 3859/1 inevitably calls to mind Kazimir Malevich’s Black Square, painted in 1915 — an expression that reduced vision to its most essential form.

The dial composition is exceptionally restrained. The outer section is crafted in warm white mother-of-pearl, revealing a soft, fluid lustre under the light; at its centre lies a deep black onyx panel, like a frozen “absolute form.” This black-and-white construction is not merely a contrast of materials, but a conceptual dialogue: light and void, space and substance.

Unlike traditional decorative dial designs rich in ornament and narrative, this Ref. 3589/1 strips almost everything away, leaving only the most fundamental visual order. The black onyx recalls the square in Malevich’s painting, symbolising purity and ultimate abstraction, while the mother-of-pearl surround acts like an infinitely extending field, giving the entire dial a sense of depth within stillness.

In a certain sense, this is not merely a wristwatch.

It is a wearable work of Suprematism.

At Sotheby’s recent spring auction, a platinum Patek Philippe Ref. 2552 achieved HKD 6 million, making it clear that collectors’ enthusiasm for the reference remains exceptionally strong.

Ref. 2552 is powered by Patek Philippe’s first-generation automatic movement, the Cal. 12-600AT, widely regarded as one of the most beautiful movements ever made by the manufacture. It was used only during the 1950s in a small number of references, including the 2526, 2551 and 2552.

Compared with the better-known Ref. 2526, the Ref. 2552 — despite sharing the same 12-600AT movement — was produced in only around one-fifth of the quantity. Across all metals, just over sixty examples are known to have surfaced. Within such limited production, examples preserved in excellent condition are even more difficult to find. On this particular 2552, both the hallmarks on the lugs and the 18K mark inside the caseback remain remarkably crisp.

Then there is the design of the 2552 itself. It features a stepped, layered bezel and case middle, similar to its sibling reference 2551, but with straighter and more architectural lines. What makes it even more compelling is the way the lugs are simplified and set back behind the case middle. These recessed lugs allow the stepped surfaces of the bezel and case body to be fully revealed. Together with the “PP” crown, slightly sunken into the case, the watch creates a subtle sense of floating tension — giving rise to its nickname, the “Disco Volante,” or flying saucer.