Shop

The dial of this 1980s Patek Philippe Ref. 3859/1 inevitably calls to mind Kazimir Malevich’s Black Square, painted in 1915 — an expression that reduced vision to its most essential form.

The dial composition is exceptionally restrained. The outer section is crafted in warm white mother-of-pearl, revealing a soft, fluid lustre under the light; at its centre lies a deep black onyx panel, like a frozen “absolute form.” This black-and-white construction is not merely a contrast of materials, but a conceptual dialogue: light and void, space and substance.

Unlike traditional decorative dial designs rich in ornament and narrative, this Ref. 3589/1 strips almost everything away, leaving only the most fundamental visual order. The black onyx recalls the square in Malevich’s painting, symbolising purity and ultimate abstraction, while the mother-of-pearl surround acts like an infinitely extending field, giving the entire dial a sense of depth within stillness.

In a certain sense, this is not merely a wristwatch.

It is a wearable work of Suprematism.

At Sotheby’s recent spring auction, a platinum Patek Philippe Ref. 2552 achieved HKD 6 million, making it clear that collectors’ enthusiasm for the reference remains exceptionally strong.

Ref. 2552 is powered by Patek Philippe’s first-generation automatic movement, the Cal. 12-600AT, widely regarded as one of the most beautiful movements ever made by the manufacture. It was used only during the 1950s in a small number of references, including the 2526, 2551 and 2552.

Compared with the better-known Ref. 2526, the Ref. 2552 — despite sharing the same 12-600AT movement — was produced in only around one-fifth of the quantity. Across all metals, just over sixty examples are known to have surfaced. Within such limited production, examples preserved in excellent condition are even more difficult to find. On this particular 2552, both the hallmarks on the lugs and the 18K mark inside the caseback remain remarkably crisp.

Then there is the design of the 2552 itself. It features a stepped, layered bezel and case middle, similar to its sibling reference 2551, but with straighter and more architectural lines. What makes it even more compelling is the way the lugs are simplified and set back behind the case middle. These recessed lugs allow the stepped surfaces of the bezel and case body to be fully revealed. Together with the “PP” crown, slightly sunken into the case, the watch creates a subtle sense of floating tension — giving rise to its nickname, the “Disco Volante,” or flying saucer.

This is Rolex casting a sky full of stars across the Day-Date.

Ref. 18366 is crafted in quietly luxurious platinum, with a pavé diamond dial of tiny white diamonds forming a vast celestial field, while sapphire hour markers shine like fixed stars within it. The clean, transparent baguette-cut diamond bezel resembles a crystal palace encircling a nebula.

It stands apart from the familiar image of the Day-Date as an authoritative and conservative “President’s watch.” Instead, it represents a rare aesthetic expression from Rolex’s small-production, high-jewellery creations of the 1990s.

Platinum holds the sun and moon; stars gather upon the wrist.

The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 in stainless steel, Ref. 101.026, is one of the most legendary creations within modern Lange collecting.

The Lange 1 itself is the defining watch of Lange’s revival after 1994. With its off-centre dial architecture, oversized date and manually wound Calibre L901.0, it established a distinct aesthetic order that could only belong to A. Lange & Söhne. Yet the stainless-steel case elevates this example beyond the language of the standard catalogue, turning it into one of the rarest exceptions in the Lange universe.

Compared with Lange 1 examples in yellow gold, white gold or platinum, the stainless-steel version does not rely on additional complication to assert its importance. Instead, its power lies in the contradiction of its material, its extremely limited production, and its almost mythical status among the most serious Lange collectors. In the world of A. Lange & Söhne, stainless steel is far rarer — and in many ways more precious — than gold. Never listed in any official catalogue, the steel Lange 1 has often been described by international collectors as “mythical,” its tiny production only deepening its aura of mystery.

Yet the legend of this Ref. 101.026 goes even further.

This is not an ordinary retail example. Its first owner was Mr. Stefan Muser, a figure deeply connected to the early revival of A. Lange & Söhne. During the golden era in which Günter Blümlein and Walter Lange rebuilt the manufacture, Mr. Muser was not only closely associated with this remarkable chapter in horological history; through his singular position within the industry, he was also able to commission and own this exceptionally rare stainless-steel example.

Without adding any further complication, this watch stands at the summit of Lange collecting purely through the anomaly of its material, its extraordinarily low production, and its remarkable provenance.

An object not to be sought, but to be encountered — a tribute reserved only for the most discerning collectors who truly understand its significance.