WHAT IS SPECIAL
The Rolex Ref. 18168 stands as one of the defining high-jewellery Day-Date creations of the 1980s. Unlike more conventional Day-Date references, its signature feature is the bezel set with 24 elongated baguette-cut gemstones, arranged in pairs to mark each hour.
Compared with the more commonly seen diamond-set versions, this particular 18168 is fitted with deep blue sapphires, creating a striking contrast in both colour and tone against the warmth and brilliance of the yellow-gold case.
Even more distinctive is its honeycomb-set dial. An 18K gold base is covered with diamonds, rubies and sapphires arranged in a continuous geometric pattern, forming a structure reminiscent of a honeycomb. The geometry gives the dial a strong sense of order, while the concentric interplay of red and blue gemstones introduces a lively visual rhythm.
To preserve the continuity of the composition, the ROLEX and DAY-DATE signatures are placed on separate gold plaques. Black hands cut sharply through the almost entirely gem-set background. The contrast between gold, blue, red and black is exceptionally strong, yet the time remains immediately legible.
Now shift the eye away from the dial for a moment. Rather than the more familiar President bracelet, this watch is fitted with a distinctive diamond-set Jubilee bracelet. Its centre links continue the diamond setting, extending the jewellery character of the bezel and dial seamlessly across the bracelet.