Collecting Guide | Vacheron Constantin 222

In our previous market analysis, we mentioned some of the most impressive watch designs that came out of the 1970s. Earlier this month, Vacheron Constantin announced the return of another icon from the 70s—the Vacheron Constantin 222.

Watch enthusiasts get all excited when an iconic watch from the past gets resuscitated, just as sports fans do when their favourite players make a comeback after retiring. Sometimes a watch brand can benefit greatly from being nostalgic and staying faithful to some of its iconic designs from the past (as evidenced by the designs of Nautilus and Royal Oak which have stayed unchanged in the past few decades.)

A lot of the times, we are buying a watch not for its future but for its history.

Today, we will take a look at the significance the 222 holds for Vacheron Constantin, the differences between the new release and the original version, its market trend and some collecting tips for the reference.

 

The new 222 released in 2022 | Source: monochromewatches

 

Reintroduction of the 222

First of all, we must give credit to Vacheron for not making another steel sports watch with a blue dial—the market is already saturated with the likes of such design.

This time, Vacheron combined a solid gold case with a champagne-colored dial to recreate that vibrant and almost hippie style of the 70s that is by no means understated.

However, it did not come as a surprise, since the design came directly from Vacheron’s archives and was previously used on the original version of the reference.

 

The original 222 (left) and the new model (right) | Vacheron Constantin

 

The 222 is an embodiment of Vacheron Constantin’s idiosyncrasies

The original 222 was released in 1977 to commemorate the 222nd anniversary of Vacheron Constantin. By now you have probably figured out the origin of the name “222”.“222” was actually not the reference number but the name of the model. The reference was 44018.

On the advertisement at the time, the number “222” represented the uninterrupted history of Switzerland’s oldest watch brand. So the first idiosyncratic feature of VC consists in not giving a proper designation to its sports watch.

 

An advertisement of the 222 in the 1970s | Source:Vacheron Constantin

 

Next, we would like to debunk a rumor associated with the creation of the 222. Many think that the 222 was designed by Gerald Genta, the man who came up with the iconic designs of the Nautilus and the Royal Oak. But in fact it was designed by the talented Jörg Hysek, who was only 24 years old at the time. Interestingly, Jean- Marc Vacheron, the founder of Vacheron Constantin, was also 24 when he founded the company.

As an early bloomer, Hysek opened his own studio after working for Rolex for 4 years, and his very first client was Vacheron Constantin. Vacheron made it clear what was needed, Hysek delivered and sold the design to Vacheron, simple and straightforward. The fact that Vacheron commissioned the fledgling Hysek instead of the famous Genta also shows another idiosyncratic aspect of the brand.

 

The designer of the 222: Mr. Hysek

 

Although the 222 was the predecessor of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas series, it was not the first model to feature a case with an integrated bracelet. The first was in fact the Chronometer Royal 2215, released in 1975, two years earlier than the introduction of the 222.

Despite the fact that this first attempt was not commercially successful, Vacheron continued to incorporate the combination of integrated cases with high-grade movements into the design of the 222, which shows the brand’s persistence and stubbornness.

Chronometer Royal Ref. 2215 | Resouce: Phillips

 

Vacheron Constantin’s big star in the 1970s was no doubt the 222. The barrel-shaped case, the beer-cap-shaped bezel and the Maltese cross carved at the bottom right corner of the case make the watch sporty and elegant at the same time, perfectly showcasing the brand’s understanding of sporty elegance.

 

The Maltese cross on the 222 | Source:Vacheron Constantin

 

The movement was based on the same ultra thin JLC Cal. 920 used on the Nautilus and Royal Oak. The bracelet was crafted by Gay Frères, possibly the best bracelet maker in Switzerland. The dial was made by the skilled and experienced dialmaker Stern Frères.

Any watch that features all the elements above is going to be exceptional and collectible, let alone a rare sports watch from Vacheron Constantin.

The original 222(Jumbo) was produced for 7 years and discontinued in the mid-1980s. The total production number was approximately 750 pieces, including steel models with grey or blue dials, as well as gold models such as the one released in 2022. The rarest are the ones in white gold, and the ones with silver and white dials.Having come up with such an iconic and commercially successful series, Vacheron immediately discontinued the 222 after the company had survived the quartz crisis. A peculiar move indeed!

 

The Vacheron Constantin 222 from 2022

 

Differences between the new 222 and its vintage counterpart

First of all, the case metals are different. Although the new case is still in yellow gold, it is a specific type of gold called 3N gold, which exhibits a vintage tone. Compared with the original version, you will see that the new gold used is more red and appears almost pink-goldish, while the original is more yellowy.

It is entirely a matter of personal preference when it comes to theses two different shades of gold. Personally, though I am a vintage lover myself, I actually prefer the new release for its more modern look.

 

On the left is the new 222; notice the difference in metal colors｜Source: monochromewatches

 

The most obvious difference lies in the movements. As mentioned before, the movement used on the original was an ultra-thin movement by Jaeger Lecoultre. The new 222 is powered by the in-house Cal. 2455/2, with an 18k gold rotor on top.

Third, the original 222 has a solid back with the number “222” engraved on it. The new model has a sapphire see-through back, through which one can see the gold rotor with “222” and the beer cap pattern engraved on it.

 

Left:The solid back of the original 222 | Source:Phillips

Right:The see-through back of the new 222 | Source:Vacheron Constantin

 

Left:The date window overlaps with the minute track on the original 222 | Source：Christie's

Right:The date window does not overlap with the minute track on the new 222 | Source: Vacheron Constantin

 

The new 222 retains my favorite feature—the Maltese cross at 5 o’clock position. This remind me of the Spirit of Ecstasy that can be seen on the front of every Rolls-Royce car. I am well aware that an excess of logos is not necessarily a good thing, but the cross here really is a cherry on the cake.

The new case is no longer monobloc and adopts a 3-piece construction. As a result, its water resistance has been reduced from 120m to 50m. I do not consider this downgrade a big drawback—surely owners of a gold Vacheron Constantin watch will also own a couple of waterproof Casios to go for a swim with.

In terms of the bracelet, Vacheron got rid of the visible screws and improved on the comfortability of the buckle. Although these are minor changes, it is always pleasant to see a brand making new arrangements and improvements instead of just doing an exact copy.

 

The bracelet of the new 222｜Source: monochromewatches

 

Auction performance of the original 222 + Collecting Tips

The gold version of the 222 has seen a significant increase in auction price since 2020. In November 2019, Sotheby’s sold one for nearly $30K, and a full year later Phillips sold one for about three times that price.

But we must take into account that the one sold by Sotheby’s in 2019 was watch-only, while the one sold by Phillips was a full set, with the original box, certificate, tag and money clip. Rare watches that come with complete accessories tend to perform well in auctions, as the accessories further increase the rarity of the watch. Any 222 is rare in itself; a full set one is all the more precious and difficult to come by.

However, we think that it is important to adopt a rational stance on the value of accessories. After all, the watch itself is the most crucial and valuable part, and accessories should only command a minor amount of premium.

 

222s with original box and papers | Source: Phillips

 

Steel 222s have also seen a drastic increase in price in the past two years. Although the price was relatively stable from 2016 to 2019, it suddenly increased from an average of less than USD$50000 to more than $100000 between 2020 and 2021.

However, the auction results need to be treated in a careful and case-by-case manner, since the condition and completeness of the watches vary. Also, the very nature of auction makes it rather unpredictable. In November 2021, Phillips sold a steel 222 for CHF189000, whereas in the same month Christie’s sold another steel example for only CHF 93750. The difference is striking, considering that two watches were apparently in similar condition and the one sold by Christie’s was even more complete.

One must take into account that different auctions have different clienteles. It would not be wise to set a single auction result as the benchmark for a model. After all, each hammer price is determined by the last two bidders.

Compared to the steel model, gold 222s are even rarer(500 pieces in steel & 150 pieces in gold). The uprising trend of the 222 is directly related to the rise of Nautilus and Royal Oaks, which are virtually unobtainable at retail price and command formidable price tags on the secondary market. The market demand for high-end sports watches with integrated bracelets is unprecedentedly high, which has led many to rediscover the 222, an equally iconic watch from the 1970s.

 

Reinterpretation of the 222

Given the upward trend of the vintage 222s, it is all to natural for Vacheron Constantin to create a re-edition of the 222. Also, 2022 is undoubtedly the best year to release the new 222.

The vintage-inspired Historiques Collection also includes the Cornes de vache, the Triple Calendrier and the American 1921. The reintroduction of these iconic models not only helps with current sales but also increases the value of the original vintage pieces. Talk about killing two birds with one stone.

 

Vacheron Constantin Historiques Collection | Source: Vacheron Constantin

 

The newly released 222 is not a limited edition, but it is boutique exclusive and comes in very limited quantity. We believe that this will not be the only reinterpretation of the 222, considering that the brand has spent so much time and resources on the development of the re-edition. We expect the brand to release more 222 models featuring different materials and dials in the near future.

After all, the other two Swiss brothers have capitalized greatly on the Gerald Genta designs. It is high time that Vacheron revived Mr. Hysek’s design.

A friend of Paddlewaves has sent us some live photos of the new 222 from the from line. We are told that the new 222 exhibits perfect details and wears very smooth and comfortable on the wrist despite its considerable weight. We look forward to visiting the nearest Vacheron Constantin boutique to experience and appreciate this classic design which has spanned over 45 years.