Collecting Guide | Rolex King Midas

Collecting Guide | Rolex King Midas

For collectors who appreciate the superb engineering quality of Rolex but seek something different from the brand’s mainstream sports models, the King Midas offers a compelling alternative.

Introduced in the early 1960s, the King Midas stands apart from every other Rolex reference ever produced. Asymmetric, architectural, and crafted solidly in precious metal, it remains one of the most unconventional creations in the brand’s history.

 

Rolex King Midas in White Gold

 

Unlike Submariner, Daytona, or Datejust models that defined Rolex’s tool-watch identity, the Midas represents a deliberate departure: a sculptural object disguised as a wristwatch.

 

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The King Midas was designed by Gerald Genta, prior to his later fame as the creator of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus. At the time, Rolex was not yet the strictly codified brand we know today. The Midas appears almost experimental, and there is little evidence that Rolex initially intended it to become a long-term production line.

Conceived around 1962, nearly a decade before the Royal Oak, the Midas reveals an early exploration of architectural geometry and precious metal mass.

 

King Midas

King Midas of Greek legend

 

This Midas (ΜΙΔΑΖ) product name written in Greek, derives from the mythological King Midas of Greek legend, whose touch turned objects to gold. The Midas draws direct inspiration from the Parthenon: Lay this watch flat on a table, and you've erected an ancient Greek temple: its triangular top resembles the pediment of a shrine. The clean, powerful lines of the Doric columns transform into the links of the bracelet. The serrated sunburst design of the crown seems crafted to dedicate this sanctuary to Apollo.

 

the temple of Epicurious Apollo

the temple of Epicurious Apollo drawing by F. Taylor. 1882

Rolex King Midas

 

Beyond this impressive design, the use of genuine materials is also a hallmark of Midas. The Midas was the most expensive watch in Rolex's catalog at the time, and also the heaviest. Holding it in your hand, you immediately grasp the Midas's substantial weight, each segment of the bracelet is solid precious metal, thick and wide. Keep in mind that the Midas's retail price back then was a full 30% higher than Rolex's flagship Day-Date model, and it offered no additional functions whatsoever.

Whether it's Midas's distinctive design or its substantial weight, the most legendary musicians, names like Elvis Presley, jazz icon Ella Fitzgerald, and pop superstar Rihanna, are all devoted wearers of Midas.

 

Elvis Presley wearing Rolex King Midas

Elvis Presley and Rolex King Midas

 

Oh, and Rolex also adorably created a family for King Midas. As seen on the posters from that time, alongside King Midas were Queen and Princess Midas, truly a harmonious and happy family.

 

Rolex poster of King Midas

Poster of Rolex King Midas

 

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Now let's take a look at the different models and styles available from Midas.

First Generation: Ref. 9630 (1962–1972)

 

King Midas ref.9630

Rolex Midas ref.9630


The first-generation King Midas, reference 9630, represents the purest form of the concept. Though commonly cited production numbers suggest approximately 1,000 pieces, scholarship indicates that fewer than 800 examples were produced, including roughly 144 in white gold and a small number set with diamonds.

Every case was handcrafted in precious metal during the 1960s, resulting in minor variations between examples. The earliest approximately 250 pieces lack “King Midas” engraving on the case flank. Even among engraved examples, the placement and execution vary slightly due to hand-finishing.

The first-generation Midas featured the Greek letters ΜΙΔAΣ printed on the dial of the 9630 model, offering a more authentic design aesthetic compared to the later Cellini's script font. Unlike many contemporary Rolex models, the 9630 utilized a sapphire crystal rather than plexiglass — an advanced choice for its time.

The solid bracelet construction and substantial thickness, approximately 3.77mm, contribute to its exceptional tactile quality. The clasp, engraved “King Midas by Rolex of Geneva,” employs a double-folding mechanism distinct from later iterations.

 

double folding Bracelet of King Midas

 

 

Second Generation: Ref. 3580 Cellini (1972–1976)

 

Rolex King Midas 3580

Rolex King Midas 3580 | Source: HODINKEE

 

With the second generation, reference 3580, the King Midas was incorporated into the Cellini line. Production appears to have been even more limited, with approximately 500 examples produced, primarily in yellow gold with a smaller number in white gold.

The dial signature transitioned from Greek ΜΙΔΑΣ to the Cellini script, though early transitional examples retained the original Greek text. The movement remained the ultra-thin Caliber 650 before later transitioning to Caliber 651.

The case architecture remained fundamentally unchanged. For collectors, caseback numbering provides a helpful indicator of production period, with higher serials corresponding to later examples.

 

Third Generation: Ref. 4315 Cellini (1977–1979)

 

Rolex King Midas ref.4315 in Yellow Gold

 

By the third generation, gold prices had risen significantly during the 1970s. Rolex responded by reducing bracelet thickness from approximately 3.77mm to 3mm, resulting in noticeably lighter weight.

The clasp design evolved into a single-fold configuration, and screws were introduced to facilitate link adjustment.

While still retaining the asymmetrical case, this generation reflects subtle economic and structural adaptations.

 

Asymmetrical and Symmetrical Variants

Beyond the original asymmetrical design, Rolex introduced variations including diamond-set versions and textured case surfaces.

Later symmetrical case versions emerged, incorporating snap-back casebacks and often housing the Caliber 651 movement. References such as 3584, 4312, and 4316 introduced stone dials including lapis lazuli, coral, and tiger’s eye. Reference 4312 featured a finely crafted Milanese bracelet, while reference 4620 incorporated sapphire-set bezels. Reference 4342 adopted a symmetrical case with a hexagonal dial, reinterpreting the Midas triangular motif in mirrored form.

 

ROLEX KING MIDAS REF.3584

Rolex King Midas 3584 | Source: Christie's

King Midas 4312

Rolex King Midas 4312 | Source: Fashionphile

Rolex King Midas in White Gold Ref.4620

Rolex Cellini King Midas White Gold Ref. 4620 | Source: Momentumdubai

rolex cellini king midas 4342

Rolex Cellini King Midas 4342 | Source: relojesvintagemexico

 

These iterations expanded aesthetic diversity but moved progressively away from the architectural purity of the original concept.

 

Strap Models (Mid-1970s to Late 1980s)

Subsequent models transitioned to leather straps, further reducing material mass and production cost. Movements evolved from the Piaget-developed Caliber 651 to Rolex’s in-house Calibers 1600 and 1601.

While these pieces retain the Midas name, their departure from the integrated bracelet and original sculptural mass significantly alters the character of the watch. From a purist collecting perspective, earlier integrated-bracelet references remain preferable.

 

Rolex Cellini King Midas 4017

Rolex Cellini King Midas 4017 | loupe this

Rolex King Midas ref.4126

Rolex Cellini King Midas Hobnail 4126 | Source: relojesvintagemexico

 

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The box and packaging are the most striking features of the Midas, but unfortunately, whether due to its age or because owners wish to keep this unique packaging even after selling the watch, very few Midas watches retain their original boxes today.

 

Case of Rolex King Midas

Box of King Midas | Source: Antiquorum

 

Unlike today's uniform Rolex paper boxes and green packaging, the Midas box fully echoes the watch's ancient Greek theme. The scene depicted is the famous story from the Midas amphora, dating back to 440 BC. Soldiers found the drunken Silenus on the street and brought him before King Midas. As fate would have it, Midas recognized the figure before him not as a common drunkard, but as the teacher of Dionysus, the god of wine. The king generously invited him to stay for several days of revelry before sending him back. To express his gratitude, Dionysus bestowed upon the king his legendary gift of turning everything he touched into gold.

 

Classical painting of a scene with Midas return

 

In many ways, the metaphor proves unexpectedly fitting. What began as an unconventional and arguably risky design within Rolex’s history has, over time, transformed into one of the brand’s most intellectually intriguing and collectible references.

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